I am making the violet gown and this gown simultaneously, for the same lady, so you will see a lot of weird double posts in the future. Trying to get these done before school starts!
Firstly, I laid the gown out on my cutting table and got to work pinning the voluminous fancy fabric back piece to the pre-made boned and laced lining. I made the lining and assembled the back pieces a month ago, but got busy with summer life and couldn’t continue on until now.
I sewed all the raw edges together, and then added a line of anchor stitching along the back on either side to snug the fabric up to show off some curves.
This one I pleated up a little differently. If you are a hand sewing purist, please follow me down this hallway to the lounge. Have a comfy seat, here is a drink and a magazine, I’ll fetch you when the blasphemy is over.
Yes, I really sewed down the pleats with a machine. I just didn’t want to hand sew today; it’s hot, my hand is sweaty, I feel sloppy. I thought there should be way I could do it with the machine and not have any stitches showing– and I did it! I just made a 3 inch vertical line of stitches wherever I wanted a pleat.
Folding it back onto itself to form the first of the outer pleats.
Anchoring the center back so I’m working with even amounts of fabric on either side.
Another line to prepare for the second outer pleats.
Two more lines of stitching down the center back, preparing to make that cute little double fold.
Folding inward to make the cute double center pleats.
ooooo getting tight in there! These last lines were awkward, but I managed.
Last ones, the third outer pleats, measured, marked and stitched.
Folding again, after stitching, to create that second outer pleat.
Evening up the very top pleats and ready for pressing!
Pressed and ready for the very last lines of hidden stitches.
Voila! Unfortunately, those last two pleat lines did have to be hand sticthed, but it was a very small amount and not the whole shebang. Excuse me while I go fetch the hand sewers from the lounge…
I also still had to prick stitch across the back, using the draper’s tape to keep my line from wiggling about.
Ta da! I actually really liked this method. It did not save me any time, I don’t think, as it took plenty of time to go back and forth to the machine, fabric wrangling, marking and stitching carefully and etc. etc. Hand sewing was just as time consuming, but it saved me some crankiness today, and for that my husband is grateful.
Pinning and stitching the binding across the top.
Flipped over and handstitched down using a Hawaiian Applique stitch. (Yeah, that’s probably just a plain applique stitch the Hawaiian quilters use, but it’s just cooler to be Hawaiian! )